Wednesday, August 27, 2008

painting happiness

I woke up in a really bad mood. It was overcast and after the rough day I had yesterday (lots of time wasted by waiting for people, got home after dark at 6:30, which is really late), I didn’t want to do anything but stay curled up in my cozy bed. But I can hold off going pee for only so long and since the toilet is outside and I have to get decent before I leave my house, usually by the time I come back from the toilet, I’m wide awake. So despite the intimidating clouds, I braved the weather set off for the office to start my last project. I want to paint the office, cheer it up a bit for the staff and paint a big version of our logo on the wall.

As I walked down the road I didn’t really think about this and instead went over all the confrontations I wanted to have so I could wallow in my bad mood. But I knew this wasn’t going to get me anywhere so I tried hard to turn my bad mood around. I immediately got a ride and the guy driving was really friendly and that helped. I was surprised when I got to the office and no one was there but I just got down to work clearing things out and scraping the walls. The German guys showed up (they are here for a month volunteering for Phedišang, not sure if I’ve introduced them yet) and wanted to use the internet and they were in luck because no one was in the office working on the computers. It was nice to have them around (despite the fact that they were some of the people I wanted to have choice words with, mostly because they are a bit too attached to the internet and harass me to use it every day – and caused us to be really late getting home on Monday) and they helped reach the really high spots on the ceilings – they both are extremely tall.

Finally, around 12:30 I got really hungry and had to stop. I went outside and asked the cooks for some water to wash off the white paint on my hands so I could eat. Jeanette, one of the cooks, brought me a bucket of water and I started washing but she must not have liked my style because she grabbed my hands and took over the job. She first scrubbed my right hand and used tons of soap before moving on to the left hand to repeat the process. She was talking with the other women in Sepedi the whole time and I couldn’t quite understand what they were talking about but paraffin was mentioned. Next thing you know she’s put a bit of paraffin on my hand telling me that it will help get the paint off. After she was finished I dried my hands on my pants as usual and was about to go and get my bread with peanut butter but she stopped me and told me to wash my hands again to get the paraffin off – good call. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that I was only taking a short break to put food in my mouth – I went right back in a few minutes later and finished painting the first coat and got a bit more paint on my hands.

I was hoping to leave the office early today but I’m offering my moral support to Charity and Suzan while they go over the financial report. I could be upset about staying late at work again but I’m going to try my hardest not to be – at least I am spending time with two of the most important people from my time here. The time with C & S is just as valuable, even if I am just sitting next to them, not actually saying much – there is always the journey home.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

girls work weekend

One of the projects I’ve worked on during my two years involves a girl’s high school from Johannesburg coming out to Phedišang for a work weekend. The idea manifested itself one night while I was sitting at the dinner table with Leigh and Sue – we were having one of our many discussions about Phedišang’s potential and how it doesn’t take two years of living in a different country to be socially aware. We discussed the two worlds’ that twist and turn around each other to make up the complex but amazing country of South Africa. There are so many South Africans that have never seen the country like I am experiencing it – because of their Apartheid history, many white people would never even contemplate stepping foot inside a community like the one I live in (I know this because I’ve had a few people actually tell me this exact thing). I truly believe that in order to break down the stereotypes, we have to overcome that fear of the unknown and expose ourselves. I think even for Leigh’s family, who have visited this area for years, were surprised that a young woman would choose to spend two years of her life, living in this rural community. Once they saw that I was making it work, not afraid as long as I took the proper precautions, we got to talking seriously about letting Katherine, their 15 year old daughter, come and spend a few days with me in the village. The McLean’s have proven to be my surrogate family and I care for Katherine and Richard as if they were my own siblings, wanting for them the best that this world has to offer but also making sure they get a well-rounded view of it. That’s why I thought it was so important the Katie and Teresa (my real younger sisters) got to come and spend some time with me, not just in South Africa, but in my village, working with me and meeting my friends and family there. There is so much about the experience that just can’t be put into words but I know will stay with them (and me) for years to come – hopefully shaping the way they view life just a little bit differently. What I’m getting at is that it doesn’t take a lot to be socially conscious, just a willingness to open one’s eyes and step outside of comfort zones, if only for a few days.

From that dinner table conversation (and I’m sure the many others that we would have that would lead into the late hours and really define my Joburg experience), an idea was formed and we planned, stressed and pulled off a weekend where nine 10th grade girls from Roedean School (the one that Katherine attends) stepped outside of their comfortable worlds of heated floors, indoor plumbing and cable TV and came to Phedišang Limpopo for a weekend in late July of 2007. They stayed in the secret haven of the London Mission – located relatively close to our centres/office but even more peaceful and with an incredible view of the mountains. They slept on thin mattresses on the floor, braved the pit toilets (sometimes even in the dark) and the outdoor showers (which I cherished) and the lack of electricity in the building they were staying in. Overall the weekend was a success; we learned what worked – the bathrooms weren’t that big an issue, the activities were a hit as well as the home visits to some of the Phedišang girl’s houses. And what didn’t work – forced one on one interaction with the Phedišang girls, too much debriefing and expecting the Roedean girls to talk about their feelings. After discussions with the Phedišang kids and the Roedean girls, we decided we could do it again the next year, tweak a few things and have even more girls so we could go to all 6 of the Phedišang centres.

The first weekend of August 2008, we had another successful weekend with the Roedean girls. This year the energy was completely different. The first group of girls had no idea what to expect and were a lot more timid going into the weekend. This group of girls arrived at the mission with a spirit and energy that surprised and enchanted me. They were a strong group of girls, no doubt prepared by the previous group but also because of their own ambitions. They spent Friday afternoon meeting the kids at their respective centres and then two long days, Saturday and Sunday, working on wall murals, posters and learning some of the crafts that the Phedišang kids do, as well as traditional games and dances.


Monday was the last day, and after a few hours at the centres, where they put the finishing touches on their projects, we brought all the Roedean girls back to the Mission, along with the Phedišang Leaders they had been working closely with throughout the weekend. It was a beautiful night and while some were preparing the braai dinner, a few others were working together with their leaders on whatever they were going to perform for the variety show later than night. I had been running around, doing whatever I could to help and when I ran up to Charlotte (the Roedean woman in charge of the weekend), she looked at me and although I don’t remember her exact words, it was then that I looked around and saw that this was what it was all about. We were cooking porridge in one area, others were beating drums, groups of Roedean girls and Phedišang leaders were practicing together in different spots – and it all just felt natural and right.

The rest of the night was wonderful, with good food and a fun variety show that even had a little dancing and singing from the “adults” of the weekend. The weekend was long but amazing, and surprisingly had only one conflict to speak of. The girls didn’t let it cripple their support of each other and hopefully those involved learned a valuable lesson; that sometimes the right thing to do is not always the comfortable choice. The experience will stay with the Phedišang kids for a long time and hopefully help open the minds of the Roedean girls as they go through life.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

insignificant walks

Less than 3 weeks left in the village. It’s crazy to think that in 3 weeks, all of my stuff will be packed up, my pictures and cards taken off the walls and I’ll really be walking away from this place. Two years here – it certainly doesn’t seem like it and in so many ways I don’t want to say goodbye to my friends. I know I’ll be back but it will be different. The quiet calm of the village will be far away once I’m living in the city again. I’m trying to enjoy each little thing, grasp it fully before it slips away.

So today I hung out with Tanya for a bit. It wasn’t necessarily work related at all but it was necessary. Our time is almost through, our friendship destined to change. We went and hung out with Megan for a bit and then we walked to the post office. A seemingly insignificant event but one of the things I’ll remember a long time from now when everything is a bit fuzzy and many things forgotten. The walks to the post office, always eventful with someone (usually a child) calling us lehua (white person) no matter how many times we tell them our names. Sometimes we would vent during the 40 minutes about work stresses or gush about our great boyfriends or just talk about life, what we want to do, where we want to go, who we want to be. We would share letters and packages on the way back, and talk about how friends and families back home, wishing more people would write, hoping tomorrow would be a better mail day. We greet people constantly, try to ignore the drunk men, try to stand the many children that when they get it right, just scream out our names, no matter if we acknowledge them or not. The walks to the post office are filled with these insignificant moments that completely embody what my experience has been like.

The main road to the post office is being tarred. For good reason the construction crews have put rows of rocks to stop cars and taxis from driving on the road because it’s not quite finished. But the people just move the rocks out of the way and drive down the road, too fast and scare the pedestrians. Today I decided that it was our job to put the rocks back. As we walked down the road, we dragged, carried, pushed and heaved the bigger rocks back to their rows to try and prevent those rule breakers from driving down the road. We got a lot of strange looks, some people laughed but we didn’t care and it was fun. And then we watched as one taxi went around our road block. Then another car stopped, got our his car, moved the rocks, got back in the car and drove the 20 feet to the next row, and repeated his process. I would think that the other road would be faster and more efficient for them but they evidently have their reasons.

A seemingly insignificant day, with seemingly insignificant events yet fulfilling in so many ways.